The Cryorig R1 Ultimate

Cryorig is a company that popped literally out of nowhere in 2013. They claim to be a company founded by experts with previous experience at other well-known companies, who banded together to both make a name for themselves and to offer "the best of all worlds". The R1 Ultimate that we have here today is the largest, most powerful cooler that they currently manufacture.

We received the R1 Ultimate well packed in a large cubic cardboard box. Everything inside the box is well packed and the bundle is well presented. Cryorig supplies the necessary hardware for the installation of the cooler, a tube of quality thermal grease and a long shank L screwdriver tool. The screwdriver tool is necessary for the installation of the cooler, unless if there is a >170 mm shank Philips PH2 screwdriver available.  They also provide a third set of wire clips, for the installation of a third cooling fan.

  

The Cryorig R1 Ultimate is a very large dual tower cooler. Plastic frames partially cover each tower and are used as supports for the two 140 mm cooling fans. The fans are preinstalled and removing them is not necessary for the installation of the cooler. Each of the two towers has two series of fins. The silver front half of each tower consists of 42 fins, the black rear half of 53 fins. The company claims that by reducing the spacing halfway across each tower, they can accelerate the air exhaust, forcing the hot air to exit the tower faster. It is a rather peculiar approach, as a uniform gap across the entire tower could achieve the same air backpressure/speed without the extra turbulence and noise that the transition will cause. Perhaps Cryorig's research showed that this approach somehow improves thermal performance, by either thinning the boundary layer or simply through higher turbulence flow.

No strange shapes or patterns here - the front of the towers is entirely straight, with Cryorig apparently thinking that trying to improve anything by shaping the intake side of the fins is a waste of resources. The rear of the fins forms a simple geometric pattern, not just to improve the aesthetics of the cooler but also to provide insertion points for the provided screwdriver, which needs to be inserted in the gaps between the center fan and the fins for the installation of the cooler.

Cryorig is using two 140 mm fans, rebranded to their own company logo. They appear to be the same as the XF140 fans that the company retails as well. Aside from the "high precision low noise" bearing that the specifications vaguely describe, not much can be found about the fans, other than that they have a maximum speed of 1300 RPM. According to the specifications of the R1 Ultimate, they are also rated at 23 dB(A). This however is a little misleading, as this is the rating of a single fan in standard test conditions (unrestricted) within an anechoic chamber, not of two fans installed on the cooler itself.

The copper base and heatpipes of the R1 Ultimate have been nickel plated to prevent oxidization, a common upgrade for high-end products. The contact surface is very smooth but not polished down to a perfect mirror finish. In order to save a little room and install a seventh heatpipe, Cryorig placed the seven heatpipes in a slight convex formation.

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  • Pissedoffyouth - Monday, July 6, 2015 - link

    I wonder how a D15 or similar, with the fans removed, would work with a 45w or 65w APU to make a passively cooled PC. Reply
  • ImSpartacus - Monday, July 6, 2015 - link

    That's a really interesting consideration. Reply
  • MrSpadge - Monday, July 6, 2015 - link

    This will depend greatly on your case airflow. And if you only run short load bursts (browsing etc.) which can easily be absorbed by the heatsink heat capacity or continous loads (games, work), where the exchange of heat from the heatsink to the outside world limits cooling. Reply
  • iamezza - Tuesday, July 7, 2015 - link

    With good fan control you could set the fan to switch off below a certain temp. So it could be silent 99% of the time but with a low rpm fan there if needed. Reply
  • Mumrik - Tuesday, July 7, 2015 - link

    You'd probably still need some level of airflow.

    I've never had a fan on my Scythe Ninja that cools an i5-2500k. I think that's a 95W TDP.

    It's close to the single 12cm rear exhaust though.
    Reply
  • Beany2013 - Wednesday, July 8, 2015 - link

    I did similar with my old SLACR Q6600 95w CPU - Noctua D14 (I think) with a fan on a controller. At stock speeds (with a pair of Noctua case fans on it) it had just enough airflow to run without the CPU fan running at all. When I wanted performance, I could overclock from 2.4ghz to 3.something ghz (I can't remember but I think they went to 3.6ghz?) and just turn the CPU fan up to 'normal' speeds and it'd never get above 70deg and it was still a very quiet machine - HDD noise was far more noticeable than fan noise.

    I really must get some decent fans for my current rig - a slightly long-in-the-tooth A8-3870 mit 16gb RAM that is still running the OEM cooler. Yes, I've got bored of overclocking. I still have that noctua kit kicking around somewhere, really must dig it out and see if I can get an adapter for it. I'm sure that'll tide me over till we see if Zen is worth a light...?
    Reply
  • Essayjedii - Friday, July 10, 2015 - link

    I have made a post about D15 in here <a href="http://www.dumblittleman.com/2015/04/14-problems-f... Hope ou find it interesting and useful. Reply
  • Essayjedii - Friday, July 10, 2015 - link

    I have made a post about D15 in here http://www.dumblittleman.com/2015/04/14-problems-f...
    Hope ou find it interesting and useful.
    Reply
  • Haravikk - Sunday, July 12, 2015 - link

    My current machine is an i7-4790T (45W, 2.7ghz, quad-core, hyper-threaded, 3.9ghz turbo with HD4600 graphics) in an Akasa Euler case, which means the case acts as a heat-sink. As I type this I'm transcoding video on all eight hardware threads with a total load of about 760% (where 800% is max), at a CPU temperature of 85ºC and a clock speed of 2.97ghz.

    Of course that's for a passive case rather than a heat-sink on its own, but as long as you have somewhere for that heat to go it definitely seems doable. For example if you used an open-air case then ought to just rise out between the heatsink fins so airflow may not be required at all.

    Basically keeping the case from becoming a big box of hot air is crucial; the Euler case with my processor (which is a slightly higher TDP than the 35W that the case recommends) gets pretty hot internally, which isn't great for internal drives. I ended up having to swap an mSATA SSD for a 2.5" one, as the mSATA drive just got too hot, while the 2.5" one has a bigger surface area and a metal body. Even so, I squeezed a tiny 40mm fan inside just to help pull hot air out on warmer days.

    So ehm… yeah, possible, but you have to be sure you've considered where that heat is going to go before you attempt it. But as others have said; if your case has room then you should just put fans in there anyway and set them to switch off at lower temperatures; you can also use very slow, quiet fans so even if they do run they're silent.
    Reply
  • Oxford Guy - Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - link

    Stick with a cooler like the NoFan models which are made specifically passive cooling. They will be much more effective. Reply

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